Tartans in the Middle
By J. R. Smith
#44 Radiant
It's tough to be the middle kid and get attention you deserve when you have over 20 great siblings.
The Tartan 33 and 33R are sandwiched between other classics
ranging from the venerable Tartan 26 to the hefty Tartan 40. Depending
on how you count, the Tartan 33 was either the fifth or sixth
best-selling boat in the firm's history.
Tartan "classics" are considered, by many owners and sailing
writers alike, to include Tartans built before 1990 and in most cases
birthed on the drawing boards of the revered Sparkman & Stephens
(S&S) shop.
Complete information about the 33's can be found in the
paragraphs below, including diagrams, photos, fresh info from S&S,
specs, sailing tips from owners, common upgrades, and a whole bunch
more.
I'd like to sincerely thank all of those who provided details, ideas, feedback and support.
History
The T33 owes part of its heritage to the Tartan Ten, also a
33' design. Later, the T34-2 used concepts introduced in the T33. The
very popular T34C (centerboard) enjoyed a 500+ production run between
1967 and 1978 and was heading for the sunset. Two fresh concepts were
rising. The Tartan Ten, one of Tim Jackett's first projects, was
positioned as an offshore one-design. This lighter, faster, no-nonsense
boat thrived and 379 were built.
| Model |
Years |
Number |
| T34C |
1967-78 |
525 |
| Tartan 10 |
1978-89 |
379 |
| T33 & 33R |
1979-84 |
215 |
| T34-2 |
1984-89 |
110 |
While the Ten appealed to racers, it was slight on cruising
accommodations and amenities. The market was changing and cruiser/racers
with more beam, headroom, and easier- to- manage rigs were becoming
very attractive. It's not prudent to ignore trends so Tartan and S&S
went to work (note 1).
Tartan's answer was the T33, sporting a 7/8 fractional rig,
33'8" LOA, a respectable 28'10" waterline, and a beam of nearly 11'. The
new Scheel keel, offering about a four-and-a half-foot draft, allowed
cruisers to gunkhole in skinny waters without the need for a centerboard
mechanism and still grab relatively good speed on windy days.
Currently, about 60 of the T33s and nine of the T33Rs are
accounted for on the Tartan Owners website. Geographically, the boats
are more numerous in the Great Lakes and along the East coast.
Sparkman & Stephens - The Design
The S&S collaboration with Tartan involved 14 models
between 1960 and 1984 with a total of some 3,400 boats built. The first
S&S design was the Tartan 27 and the last was the Tartan 40 (note 2).
Tartan asked S&S for a new cruising boat design in May of
1978. Reportedly, sales of the T34 and T30 were slowing and a new design
was needed. According to the S&S press release:
The Tartan 33 was introduced to the yachting public on
July 1979. The T-33 was designed as a comfortable cruising boat with
good sailing performance. Many of the lessons learned on the Tartan Ten
were incorporated into this design. The trials aboard the T-33 and the
sale of more than forty units to date confirm that the design targets
have been met. A comfortable cruising boat for deep water and shallow
water. In addition, a yacht which is easy to sail and still capable of
performing on any point of sail under varied conditions.
Did the final product match the original specifications from
Tartan? Not exactly, but then designs have a habit of evolving. Tartan
originally requested a 7/8 fractional rig, spade rudder, 33' overall, a
deck-stepped mast, a basic weight of 9,500 lbs. (assuming 4,400lbs of
ballast) and a Scheel keel or centerboard. The boat manufactured came
with a keel-stepped mast and was about 1,000 lbs. heavier. Obviously
there was no centerboard version. The navigation station and connection
to the quarter berth was successful on the Tartan 37 and translated to
the T33 design.
In August of 1981 the basic T33 design was modified to include
a deep fin keel, a different rudder, and a masthead sail plan. This was
the T-33R (racing) design.
The Boat
Overall, the Tartan 33 is a well-built straightforward
cruiser/racer, with good storage and simple, accessible systems, which
will hit hull speed given the right conditions and an able crew.
Comfortable enough for four on weekends, the boat will also deliver safe
and secure long-distance capability for coastal cruising couples. She's
no turbo on the racecourse but she wins her share against some of the
best in class and can be singled-handed with comparative ease. The
Universal 5424 (24 hp) diesel pushes her nicely through the water at
5.5-6.5 kts, cruise-loaded, usually burning half-a-gallon per hour.
Most cruiser/racers are compromise boats. For the most part,
T33s favor the cruising side of the equation. Conversely, the Tartan
Tens and T33Rs favor the racing side.
Hello Blue Water?
Blue-water capability is generally on the mind of a cruising
sailor. Is the T33 designed to be blue-water capable? Yes, given the
proper gear, boat condition, and an experienced crew. A spokesperson for
S&S recently stated, "Each owner must decide for himself, or by
professional survey, the structural condition of the hull and deck, rig
condition, and safety gear required for extended passages. With proper
condition and the skipper knowledge suitable to offshore passage making,
we see no reason that a T33 can't travel world wide (in moderate
climes)."
At this writing, we know that T33s have made the commute from
the East coast to Bermuda and back and a good number have cruised the
Caribbean.
According to S&S, "A typical IMS club-certificate for the
T33 lists a limit of positive stability of 119º - adequate for offshore
work." In addition, due to Rod Stephens commitment to proper offshore
design, the T33 includes a deep, safe cockpit with drains, more than
adequate handholds, and sea berths.
Deck and Cockpit
For the most part, the deck is clean and uncluttered. The
cockpit is large with proportioned coamings and long enough seats to
lure warm-weather sleepers. Seatbacks provide ample support. Winches are
well placed and appropriately sized. Wheel steering was standard.
If you hate to do brightwork, you'll love the deck of the T33.
The coachroof grab rails and a bit of companionway trim can be
spiffed-up in a weekend. Some models had teak toe-rails but the most
were equipped with slotted aluminum rails. All were through-bolted,
giving the deck-to-hull bond superior integrity.
 |
| Photo: Bob Weismantel |
Another hallmark of the T33 is the S&S-designed molded
breakwater on the coachroof. Port and starboard channels permit various
halyards and lines to be lead aft in uninterrupted fashion.
Molded non-skid on horizontal deck surfaces is a decided plus.
Double lifelines and double-rail pulpits and stern rails were also
standard.
If you don't like a foredeck anchor well, that's good. Most
original T33s owners didn't order one. There is a hawse pipe that feeds
chain and line into a locker that runs from the bow to the vee berth
forward bulkhead. It is vented, drained, and has access via a louvered
door in the vee. Anchor rollers were optional but highly desired.
Interior
The T33 and T33R interiors were very similar. The most notable
difference is that the mast enters the head in the T33 while on the
T33R it enters the salon. In some of the earlier models, the interior
finish was a tad dark but overall you'll find T33s have very good
joinery work. The interior is quite unique for a production boat, with
generous use of solid teak. When compared with newer boats in the
category, the T33 sports lavish teak where other manufacturers have
increased interior fiberglass.
There's not enough room for a 42" plasma TV but the interior
of the T33 has all the basics. Some find it more than adequate for a
cruising couple; others consider it rather minimal. If you examine the
drawing below, it looks like the T33 can actually sleep six-to-seven
adults. That's what it looks like; in reality, if a modicum of comfort
is required, it's three-to-four adults and maybe two children. Headroom
is adequate for a six-footer and the pull-down salon table will seat
four and in a pinch five for dinner.
One handy feature is the headliner design. By removing the
teak retaining strips and sliding out the panels, you have comparatively
easy access to the coachroof. This is particularly convenient when you
need to check exiting fittings exiting the coachroof or when installing
new fittings. There's also enough room to install a thin layer of
insulating material. Headliner removal on the T33R is a little more
difficult.
Among some reviewers and owners, the cabin layout was a matter
of some discord which seemed focused on the initial port side design.
Forward of the nav station is a large icebox. This grabbed enough space
to render the port settee useless for sleeping. It is narrow and lightly
cushioned, on the other hand, behind the settee are two ample storage
compartments and on top the nearly full-length pilot berth.
Later models offered accommodation plan "B" (shown). With this
plan, the icebox was moved to the galley well, the settee lengthened,
and the pilot berth replaced by storage lockers. Did this re-arrangement
make new T33 buyers any happier? Obviously, yes, since people bought
boats with the new interior design. Fortunately there are enough of both
layouts available on the previously-enjoyed market to meet current
buyer preferences.
 |
| Photo: Bob Weismantel |
Everything in the galley is within easy reach. For a boat its
size it's a functional setup. In the early 1980s the pressure alcohol
stove seemed like a good idea. While some owners deal with it, others
express great trepidation and consider its replacement high on the to-do
list.
Could the sink be a little larger? Yes but you can work around
that and it is rather deep. Across from the galley is the navigation
station, with a stow-upright 24" x 30" chart table. For those of us who
enjoy working with paper charts the table is functional. Factory
lighting for the nav station was minimal. While the curved built-in nav
station seat is not squarely aligned with the table, it is workable. On
some boats, the vented locker outboard of the table has been sacrificed
for additional electronics; some newer models are equipped with chart
storage underneath the nav table (plan B).
Breaker panels are mounted above the nav table and are easily
removed for access to the breakers and wiring. Amp and voltmeters were
standard.
Given eight opening ports in the cabin, cross ventilation is
rather good. The overwhelming majority of owners have added one or two
fans in the main cabin and the vee berth. Screened hatchboards are
recommended for warm climes. Dual cowl vents were standard but most
owners have added powered vents. The primary opening hatch is in the
vee. Some models have an additional hatch in the cabin.
Perhaps the biggest drawback is the head. Whilst seated for
duty, the mast immediately confronts one's left knee and one's right
knee butts the vanity. And if you haven't followed the latest trend
diet, you might feel somewhat cramped. Of course you could also consider
the compact head design as highly functional in rough seas, keeping
crew members securely on station. We've heard of some owners cutting
into the vanity to grab more leg room but its not an easy fix given the
hose arrangements. There is ample room to shower and the shower drains
to a separate sump in the bilge. Watch the headroom over the vanity and
toilet.
Fortunately there are doors between the main cabin and the
head and the head and the vee berth. Grab rails are numerous and
logically positioned throughout the cabin.
Storage
For its size, the T33 can handle a good deal of gear. Most
boats have 18 lockers and storage areas including a long and deep
lazarette cockpit locker. The lazarette locker is big enough for spare
anchors, rodes, fenders, docklines, storm sails, a deflated inflatable,
and probably little Billy's tricycle.
Most of the cabin storage is on the port side. Sails can be
stowed underneath the port vee-berth, in the aft storage compartment
under the port quarter berth, or in the cockpit locker. There are over
22 lockers and cubbies on models that have captured the port pilot berth
and have added lockers above each side of the vee berth. There are two
hanging lockers located in the head, with the port locker being the
larger. On some models, a factory-installed locker replaces the space
under the stove that would have been occupied by the oven. Outboard of
the galley sink there is a storage well on some models, on others, the
lid leads to the refrigeration unit or icebox.
Batteries are underneath the forward portion of the port
quarter berth. There's room for a starter battery and deep-cycle house
battery (group-27s) but not much else. One owner had another battery
holder built and has two 6-volt golf cart batteries as well as a 12-volt
starting battery in this compartment It is convenient to the power
panel and the engine. Aft of the batteries is the fuel tank and at the
foot of the quarter berth, awkward to access, is a sizeable storage
area.
Then there's the cavern accessed from the lazarette. Between
the stern and the water heater, there is considerable storage space. The
problem is that it is hard to access and you have to install brackets,
ties, or braces to prevent stored-stuff from impeding proper functioning
of the steering mechanisms.
Hull and Keel
T33s have sturdy, well-crafted hulls. Coring was used in both
the deck and hull and through-hulls were epoxied. The bow is solid below
the waterline. Like any classic sailboat, there's the possibility of
water intrusion and deck fittings and through-hulls should be checked
regularly and repaired properly.
 |
| Photo: Jim Smith |
There have been few reports of blistering. A number of boats
have been sanded or sandblasted and given a prophylactic barrier
treatment. In other words, just because a T33 hull has a barrier coat,
don't assume it had blisters.
A good number of owners have remarked about what looks like a
triangular "patch" in the hull/keel joint area that keeps "opening."
It's not a threat to the integrity of the hull or the keel. Mike
Titgemeyer, of Tartan C&C Yachts of Annapolis, says, "The triangle
is a fiberglass insert that was fitted when the keel was installed. This
allowed Tartan to put a deep keel or Scheel keel on the same stub, as
the Scheel keel is much longer than the deep fin. The triangle is
fiberglass. That joint will require the same type of maintenance the
keel/hull joint requires."
Scheel Keels were offered on nearly 50 different boat designs,
including some Pacific Seacraft models. Increased demand for shallow
draft boats without a centerboard was spurred, at least in part, by the
concomitant increase in the Florida and Bahamas charter trade. Henry
Scheel designed and patented the keel. The concept was to reduce draft,
eliminate the centerboard, and provide sufficient ballast while keeping a
low center of gravity. Further, the entire keel system had to be sturdy
enough to withstand groundings. Keel bolts on T33s and T33Rs are
directly accessible via the bilge.
 |
Scheel Keel Design Objectives:
- Reduce draft
- Eliminate centerboard
- Low ballast/center of gravity
- Reduce leeward-to-windward water flow
|
Engine and Transmission
Access to the engine is very good. Pulling the engine hood,
under the companionway ladder, allows access to the front of the engine
to change the belt, replace the impeller, and add oil or coolant (see
photo below). By removing the two panels in the starboard lazarette
cockpit locker you have easy access to the transmission, stuffing box,
front of the water header, most of the engine hoses, the heat exchanger,
and the fuel and oil filters. You can also pull the inboard panels in
the quarter berth for additional access.
 |
| Photo: Bob Weismantel |
Most of the Universal 5424s are still in service and parts are available without scrounging salvage yards (note 4).
Versions of the engine manual and a parts manual are still available.
There are a number of Universal/Westerbeke dealers that supply 5424
engine parts. Many parts can also be located via a Kubota tractor
dealer, but don't mention the word "marine", some find that as alien as
Pashtu and will immediately say; "we don't handle those."
Sound insulation standards have risen substantially since the
T33s were built. More than likely you'll need to upgrade the insulation,
not only on the molded engine cover but also on the side panels. Some
actually sound like tractor engines. Well, maybe because they basically
are tractor engines, Kubota blocks marinized by Universal.
Unfortunately the aluminum fuel tank did not come with a
cleanout/inspection port, although with a jury-rigged pump system, you
can clean the tank by removing the fill gauge and inserting the suction
hose. The Hurth gears, transmissions, are another matter. More than one
T33 owner has had to install either a new or rebuilt gear but it's not
unusual for an engine to outlast several transmissions.
Sailing the T33
No, the Scheel keel doesn't allow the boats to point as well
as those with deep fins but it offers reputable performance. The PRHF
rating is about 159. T33s like reaching, heavier air, and to sail
relatively flat. The end-of-boom mainsheet is directly in front of the
helm. Reefing is generally done at the mast, though some have more
advanced systems. Halyards can be raised at the mast or in the cockpit. A
good number have spinnakers which clearly improves light air
performance.
Bridge clearance is listed at 51.5' but for many boats with
wind instruments, VHF antennas, and the like at the masthead, it's safer
to think 54' of clearance. Its always wise to measure it yourself. The
shallow draft allows you to get into places other boats can't but the
tall keel-stepped mast prevents you from passing under certain bridges.
You'll be OK in the lower ICW but not the New Jersey section. The tall
mast allows the T33 to carry a main of about 300 square feet.
The T33's sailing capabilities are very good with excellent
tracking, partly due to the long length of the Scheel keel. Bob
Weismantel, owner of Larina said, "I race as crew on a variety of boats
with fin keels that take a lot of close attention to keep them on
course. When I come back to my T33 after a rough day on the course on
other boats the T-33 feels like power steering, the boat performs with
so little effort."
Leo Corsetti, owner of Satisfaction says, "When sailing back
from Provincetown (Cape Cod) we often encounter 30 knots (broad reach)
of wind from the SW creating 5 to 6 foot seas. One reef in the main with
a 135 jib and the boat sails well balanced, like a champ, to her home
port of Winthrop, MA."
Headsails in the 135- to-155% range are fairly common. Bill
Coster, on Silent Passage, writes, "We race our T33 very successfully.
The boat reaches very well but won't point with C&C 33's, O'Days or
similar boats but will catch and pass them on the reaches and runs. If
it's just you and your wife, invest in a 135 take a higher PHRF rating
and most of the time you will do as well as if you had a 155."
 |
| Photo: Gregg Sawyer |
Scott Wolff, skipper of Wolff Trap has raced his T33, in mostly
light air conditions, successfully for over six years in the
non-spinnaker class. He suggests you "need a folding prop, a good light
155, an experienced hand at the mainsheet, a glass smooth bottom with
clean running gear, and that you not heel more than 17-20 degrees. It
pays to know your keel actsdifferently than a fin keel." "I'm not
kidding," adds Wolff, "we are a bullet in light air. Only boats like
the J24, Hunter 26 and Capri's can hang with us in flat water."
Needless to say, fractional rigs usually sport big mains and
the T33 is no exception. A number of owners urge early reefing when the
wind builds. It's a big main and its wise to be ahead of conditions. If
its original canvas, its likely to be heavy too. Weismantel suggests,
"Keeping the mainsheet trimmed well to windward enhances mainsail
performance. As to trimming the main, it is very important to have
adequate flattening and reefing lines to sail the boat efficiently."
How does the boat handle in medium seas? Larry Luck of Kelpie
says, "the boat performs better than I can sail it. My only experience,
to date, in big water was her delivery from Cape Cod to Cape Charles
and she handled beautifully in 25-30 knots of wind and 6-8 foot seas
from the stern quarter."
Common Upgrades and Fixes
Face it, even the youngest T33 is over 20 years old and like
any classic vessel a lot depends on how the boat was treated by the
previous owner(s). One of the most common upgrades is to swap-out the
pressure alcohol stove/oven for a passive alcohol (Origo) or propane
unit. The good news is that most new units either require little or no
retro-fitting. Losing the alcohol tank, underneath the galley sink, will
yield even more storage space.
As with any sailboat of similar vintage, there are bound to be
instances of worn or fashion-crisis interiors, a leaky portlight here
and there, spider cracks in the gelcoat, and questionable rigging.
Fortunately, these common issues are not "deal-killers." If you have the
original cushions there's a good chance the foam is fairly tired and
should be replaced anyway.
If your T33 has some sole problems, check the starboard water
tank. When you over-fill the water congregates at the base of the
starboard tank locker. After a while this seal breaks down and water
seeps across the sole into the bilge. You should also check the
inspection port lids and the hose connections. The original diaphragm
water pump on many T33s is still going strong but don't be shocked to
see a replacement.
The mast bridge plate and step should be examined and repaired as necessary (note 3).
Since the mast has open fittings; it is not immune to saltwater
intrusion. If you haven't pulled the mast, do so, and inspect the bottom
for signs of corrosion. Mast corrosion around the chocks is also a
strong possibility. Catching corrosion before it gets too far is the
key.
Like many of her earlier siblings, some of the T33 have
forward eyebrow nav lights, which although functional are often hard to
see in a busy seaway. Others were delivered with pulpit-mounted lights.
Its not unusual for "eyebrow" owners to install new nav lights on the
bow pulpit and/or put a tri-color on the masthead.
 |
| Photo: Jim Smith |
Another mast-related concern is the wiring. More than a few
owners have had to completely rewire the mast. Some have the original
wiring channels inside the mast but in most cases these have
deteriorated and prove more of a hassle than they are worth. Oh, you'll
either need to be ingenious or you'll need more than a 50' wire feed or
snake to wrestle the new wire into place.
AC wiring is ample and properly installed. You'll want to
replace the original AC outlet over the sink in the main cabin with a
GFI, this will control the other two outlets, one in the main cabin and
the other in the head. Many owners have replaced all original outlets
with GFIs. There is a polarity indicator mounted on the aft side of the
nav station locker.
A few of the boats were not equipped with electric bilge
pumps. Occasionally, you'll find a boat where the electric bilge pump is
run aft to the tee for the cockpit manual pump. That's a pretty long,
uphill run for most 12-volt bilge mounted units. There is a sump pump,
usually mounted under the galley sink that might need replacement but
remember, it was designed to drain the sump, not serve as a high
capacity bilge pump.
Surprising as it may seem, a healthy number of the original
instruments are still working fine but it's fairly certain that you will
be replacing a depth or wind unit in the not too distant future. In
some cases, like Raymarine's, the depth and speedo sending units are
drop-ins for the original Datamarine units. This is not the case with
Signet equipment. Installing new display units usually requires some
modifications. The early T33s instruments were often bulkhead mounted
which is not good for the skipper trying to stare past cockpit denizens
to check wind or depth. Autopilots are a common upgrade.
A new, larger (3" diameter) heat exchanger is also a common
upgrade on the earlier models (1979-80). The impact of the undersized
heat exchanger wasn't immediately noticed, since many boats sailed
mainly in colder northern waters. When the boats headed south, where
average sea temperatures were higher, overheating became a common
problem. The fix? In most cases installing a larger heat exchanger
solved the difficulty. Of course there could be many other reasons for
engine overheating.
The Go Fast Alternative - The T33R
The T33R was designed more as a racer than a cruiser. "Rs" all
have masthead rigs, with a smaller high aspect ratio main, and 6'3" fin
keels. The T33 and T33R share the same hull. The T-33R is a
double-spreader rig with a shorter mast moved aft about a foot. The mast
is stepped through the salon rather than through the head making the
table a bear to open. The T33R interior has the standard amenities.
T33Rs sported beefier gear. Peter Crawford on Wind of Freedom
says, "The 33R also came with a bigger wheel (40" I believe); also the
winches are bigger (Lewmar 44 3-speeds) and so is the spinnaker gear.
The secondary winches, two Lewmar 30s at the corners of the cabin house
were also probably standard."
Sailing the T33R is fairly straightforward. "Downwind without a
spinnaker, she is underpowered. Light air upwind performance is
excellent and the boat is very well balanced in most conditions. You
need to work the helm on a reach, though. Downwind or on a reach in
heavy air, she'll really move. The rig is sturdy but difficult to bend
with a backstay adjuster. The mast, which has in-line shrouds, tends to
pump in some conditions, even with the babystay tight," says Crawford.
Tom Jaworksi, owner of Sorceress, states "The 33R will point
with the best of them, and does well in light airs if the bottom is
clean. Downwind without a spinnaker, she struggles a bit in winds less
than 10-15 knots. I heard from one 33R owner that he competed head to
head with a Frers 33 quite successfully, the latter being a couple of
thousand pounds lighter, but with similar sail area."
Paul Otto, skipper of Magic, likes the deep keel as "This
allows 'Magic' to go to windward with the best of them. In spite of it
however, she's a bit on the tender side and I start to reef early. She
sails best pretty flat."
Price History
Apparently the base model in 1979 listed for about $46,500. At
the end of the production run, the base T33 cost about $66,000. The
Tartan Owners website shows hull #4 of the T33 production run and hull
#1 of the T33R run are still in service.
Excluding Tartan-Tens, which are often listed with T33s by
brokers, there were about a dozen boats available for sale in December
2004. The low was a T33R for under $20,000. The standard T33 asking
prices ranged from a 1981 model at $45,500 to a 1980 at $24,900. The
higher priced boats are usually equipped with more electronics, such as
autopilot, custom canvas (bimini/dodger), and sometimes radar.
The general trend has been for the average boat, in good
condition, to sell in the $33-37k bracket. Well-found boats
traditionally trade well above $40,000. Like many of her sister classic
Tartans, it's fair to say the T33 is holding value and the general
depreciation curve has flattened. In fact, there is evidence that the
negotiated prices might be edging up, partly due to the relatively short
supply of quality classic production boats in this size range and the
value-added by the Tartan and S&S brands
T33 Connections
If you are in the market for a Tartan 33 perhaps your best
resource is current owners. They and their well considered advice can be
found at www.tartanowners.org and by joining the Tartan discussion
lists/forums, kindly provided by www.sailnet.com and www.sailjazz.com.
Finally, this review was made possible by the fantastic group
of active and caring T33 and T33R owners. I've tried to acknowledge some
of them at end of this piece. Like other Tartan models, the boats have
not only brought many years of safe passages to their skippers, they've
also brought the skippers together. If you have a problem, help is
usually just an email away.
© James R. Smith, 2005. All rights reserved. The author can be contacted at: halyardz@aol.com or jim@jrsmithgroup.com.
Notes
Notes:
- See Dan Spurr's article detailing Tartan's business history.
Of course we'll never forgive him for omitting the T33 part of the
story.
- Correspondence with S&S Design Department, January 2005.
- See Bob Weismantel's "Larina" website for details on mast step and bridge inspection and repair.
- For Universal diesel history details, see Robert Hess's website noted elsewhere.
References:
Ted Brewer, "The Tartan 33 and the Scheel Keel," Good Old Boat, September/October, 2001.
Karen Larson,"Bristol is Beautiful," Good Old Boat,
September/October, 2001. Story of Russ and Joanne Clepper's refit of a
1980 T33.
Dan Spurr, "Tartan Yachts" Good Old Boat, November 2003. A
comprehensive review of Tartan's history, principles, and boats. This is
a good read for current and potential owners but the T33 and T33R
receive very little attention.
"Tartan 33," Practical Boat Buying / Practical Sailor, July 1, 1989.
Acknowledgements:
Tartan Yachts, drawings of T33
Leo Corsetti, "Satisfaction," T33
Peter Crawford, "Wind of Freedom," T33R
Ron Hilliard, "Allegro," T33R
Josephine Ilagan ,Sparkman & Stephens Inc.
Tom Jaworski, "Sorceress," T33R
Larry Luck, "Kelpie, " T33
Paul Otto, "Magic," T33R
Garth Reynolds, "Koinonia," T33
Gregg Sawyer, "Womble," T33
Morgan Steinmetz
Mike Titgemeyer, Tartan C&C Yachts of Annapolis
Bob Weismantel, "Larina," T33
Scott Wolff, "Wolff Trap" T33
Jim Lazar, "Sybaris" T33
Specifications
Tartan 33
Designer: Sparkman & Stephens, Inc
Manufactured 1979-1984
Number of Hulls: 215 (14 masthead T33Rs, racing models)
Basic Specifications:
LOA: 33.67' LWL: 28.83 Beam: 10.96'
Draft: Scheel Keel- 4.46' Deep Fin-6.25'
Ballast 4,400 lbs. (lead)
Displacement--Dry: 10,000+ Wet: 11,300+ (est)
Hull Speed: Approximately 7 kts.
D/L: 186
Hull: hand laid fiberglass mat, woven roving, balsa coring in hull/deck
Bridge Clearance: Fractional 51.5' Masthead: 48.5'
(But don't guess, measure it yourself.)
Rig:
Mast: 7.2"x 4.5" elliptical section 6061-T6 aluminum
Boom: 3.5" x 5.0" elliptical 6061-T6 aluminum alloy
Two jiffy reefs
Fractional Rig 7/8:
I: 36.50' J: 12.5' P: 41.75' E: 14.50' (design basis and early production)
I: 39.00' J: 12.5' P: 41.75' E: 13.75' (later production **)
Sail Area: 531.00 sq. ft.
** hull no. 23 earliest confirmed
Racing Rig:
I: 44.75' J; 13.56 P: 39.18 E: 11.87'
Sail Area: 535.94 sq. ft.
PHRF*: Fractional Approx. 159, Racing Approx. 135
Basic Wire Compliment (all stainless):
Shrouds: upper & lower 9/32" 1x19
Headstay ¼" 1x19
Split Backstay: Upper 7/32" 1x19, lower-split 7/32" 7x19
Accommodations:
V double 6'4"
Starboard double
Aft Port Quarter Berth (cramped double)
Port Pilot/sea berth
Galley:
Gimbled two burner pressure alcohol stove (oven optional)
Ice box 6 cubic ft, refrigeration (optional)
Deep stainless sink w/manual water pump
Pressure water
Head:
Marine toilet w/holding tank
Pressure water
Basin w/shower head, shower curtain on track
2 Closets and 2 storage drawers
Powertrain:
Universal 5424 3-cyl diesel 24 h.p., freshwater cooled
Transmission: Hurth* gear ratio varies, usually 2:1
Prop: 2-blade 16x11x1, 3-blade 16x10x1
Approximate Capacities:
Water: 62 gal. (30 gal v tank, 32gal starboard tank) plastic
Fuel: 26 gal. aluminum
Holding: 14-19 plastic
Misc:
Port nav station w/24"x30" fold down chart table
Molded non-skid on horizontal portions of deck, usually tan
Pedestal steering, 32" stainless wheel, pedestal mounted throttle/shifter
All standing rigging lightening grounded
Ports: 8 opening, 4x14"
Thru- hulls: bronze, stainless
*Specifications vary somewhat, the above taken from Tartan literature.